Tracing the Thread — Chapter 2 : Walking Through the Birthplace of Linen

Home Among the Flax

By Christiane Dutra de Almeida
Founder, HELINN

"Sometimes the most meaningful places are not found in guidebooks. They are found in the people who open their doors."

When I arrived in Belgium after an overnight flight from Miami, I wasn't looking for luxury. I was looking for authenticity.

That search led me to De Vlaschaerd, a charming bed and breakfast in the village of Heule, just outside Kortrijk. What I didn't realize until I arrived was that this wasn't simply a place to stay. The property had once been part of the region's flax industry before being thoughtfully transformed into a bed and breakfast, preserving its connection to Belgium's rich linen heritage.

Waiting for me was Marie. From the moment we met, I knew this stay would be different. She wasn't simply handing me a room key—she was sharing her passion. As she showed me around the property, she explained its history and how flax had shaped the lives of generations in this region. Before my research had truly begun, I was already immersed in the story of linen.

A Bicycle and a Different Way to Explore

The next morning, I asked Marie if she happened to have a bicycle I could borrow. With a warm smile, she said yes and generously lent me one.

So I spent the day cycling through quiet country roads, crossing canals, passing small farms, and breathing in the cool Belgian summer air. There was no itinerary, no rush—only curiosity. Looking back, I don't think I could have understood flax from the window of a car. The bicycle slowed me down enough to notice everything.

Meeting Flax for the First Time

For the past year, I've worked with linen every day through HELINN. I've handled finished garments, learned about fabrics, and shared their benefits with customers. But that day in Belgium was the first time I met the plant itself.

The flax fields stretched quietly across the countryside. The delicate blue flowers had already disappeared, leaving behind the slender green stems that would eventually become linen fibre. I reached out and touched them. It sounds like such a small moment, but it felt like meeting the beginning of every linen shirt, tablecloth and napkin I had come to appreciate.

Nature Finishes the Work

One of the most fascinating discoveries was seeing dew-retted flax. After harvest, the flax is laid across the fields where morning dew, rain, sunshine and naturally occurring microorganisms slowly separate the valuable fibres from the woody stem. Standing there, holding the retted flax in my hands, I realised that one of the most important artisans in linen production is nature itself. Quality cannot be rushed.

The River Leie

As I cycled through the countryside, I also visited the River Leie. For centuries this river played a remarkable role in Belgian linen production because its water was ideal for retting flax, helping create exceptionally fine fibres that became famous throughout Europe.

Inside Texture Museum

My visit ended at Texture Museum in Kortrijk. Everything I had seen outdoors suddenly came together. The exhibits explained how flax shaped the region's economy, how intricate damask weaving became an extraordinary craft, and how nearly every part of the flax plant found a purpose—from premium linen fibres to linseed oil and other practical uses. I was especially struck by the idea that almost nothing from the flax plant was wasted, a philosophy that feels remarkably modern today.

A New Perspective

As I rode Marie's bicycle back to De Vlaschaerd that evening, I realised this journey had already changed me. I had travelled to Belgium hoping to learn about linen. Instead, I discovered a culture built around patience, craftsmanship and respect for nature.

I didn't return with samples that day.
I returned with perspective.

Somewhere between the flax fields, the conversations with Marie, the River Leie and the museum exhibits, I began to understand that HELINN is about more than selling linen. It is about preserving and sharing the story behind one of nature's most remarkable fibres.

What I Learned

• Belgium's linen heritage begins in the landscape as much as in its workshops.
• Dew retting demonstrates how nature plays a vital role in producing premium linen.
• The River Leie helped establish Belgium's reputation for exceptional flax.
• Nearly every part of the flax plant has traditionally been put to use.
• Understanding where linen begins makes every finished piece more meaningful.